The Evolution of the Button-Up Shirt: From Gluck to Modern Designers
In 1924, British painter Gluck made waves in the art world not just for her work, but for her signature men’s wear attire. Her debut solo show in London featured tailored shirts from Jermyn Street, sparking controversy and leading her to declare, “I just don’t like women’s clothes.” She predicted a future where women would dress similarly to men, a vision that hasn’t fully materialized but has influenced the fashion world nonetheless.
Fast forward to today, and the button-up shirt remains a classic staple in women’s wardrobes, thanks in part to postwar fashion icons like Marlene Dietrich and Katharine Hepburn. However, contemporary designers are putting their own spin on this timeless piece. Dutch designer Flòrian van Zuillen recently launched a collection of white button-ups, meticulously crafted with a keen eye for detail. Each shirt, handmade in Portugal, features unique touches inspired by vintage designs.
New York-based designer Nili Lotan, known for her sophisticated yet understated aesthetic, also champions the versatility of the button-down shirt. With each season, she introduces fresh iterations of this wardrobe essential, from striped to solid, shrunken to relaxed. Lotan believes that the button-up shirt enhances a woman’s natural beauty without overshadowing her presence.
As designers like van Zuillen and Lotan continue to reimagine the classic button-up shirt, it’s clear that this garment is far from outdated. With a focus on quality craftsmanship and thoughtful design, these modern interpretations are breathing new life into a timeless piece of clothing.