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The Rise of the ‘Evil’ Tomato in Shaping Italy’s Culinary Identity

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The Italian city of Naples, known for its rich history and culinary delights, is facing both natural and economic challenges that are impacting its iconic food culture. While the prices of olive oil have soared in Europe due to production declines caused by weather and disease, pasta prices in Italy rose sharply last year, leading to emergency talks and consumer advocacy for price caps. The root of the issue was traced back to companies trying to recoup costs from buying marked-up wheat during the early stages of the war in Ukraine.

Amidst these economic struggles, Naples also faces the looming threat of volcanic activity, with both Vesuvius and Campi Flegrei posing potential risks to the region. Despite the uncertainty and fear surrounding these natural disasters, the people of Naples continue to live their lives with a sense of resilience and acceptance of the unpredictable nature of their surroundings.

Local historian Amedeo Colella reflects on the city’s relationship with Vesuvius, stating, “Even when we speak of the future, we speak in the present tense.” This sentiment captures the essence of life in Naples, where history and tradition coexist with the ever-present threat of natural disasters.

As visitors and locals alike navigate the bustling streets of Naples, they are reminded of the city’s rich past and the resilience of its people. From the mineral-rich soil created by ancient volcanic eruptions to the daily ritual of scarpetta, where bread is used to mop up leftover sauce, Naples’ culinary traditions are deeply intertwined with its tumultuous history.

Despite the challenges faced by the city, there is a sense of pride and appreciation for the unique culture that has emerged from centuries of adversity. As the world continues to change and evolve, Naples remains a testament to the enduring spirit of its people and the power of tradition in the face of uncertainty.

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