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The Mental Process of a Fashion Critic During Fashion Week Shows

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Fashion shows are often seen as a visual spectacle, a display of creativity and artistry. But are they really just a series of disconnected fragments, consumed in the fast-paced world of social media? This season in Milan and Paris, one critic viewed the collections as a mixtape, a random and impressionistic journey through the world of fashion.

At Hermès, designer Véronique Nichanian showcased a collection of jaunty pieces that whispered wealth, eschewing traditional marketing tactics. The quiet luxury of her designs, from feather-light leather jackets to color-blocked cardigans, spoke volumes without the need for flashy branding.

Meanwhile, at Homme Plissé Issey Miyake, designer Satoshi Kondo created a collection that evoked a sense of poetic beauty in a world filled with ugliness. From sea-foam green cargo shorts to stark white layered looks, the pieces offered a respite from the harsh realities of the world.

Designers like Junya Watanabe and Rei Kawakubo at Comme des Garçons Homme Plus riffed on formal wear, reimagining tuxedos and frock coats in unique and innovative ways. Their designs evoked eras past, from post-Edo Japan to early Hollywood, creating a sense of nostalgia and elegance on the runway.

At Louis Vuitton, Pharrell Williams showcased a collection that merged inclusivity with commercial appeal, featuring luggage inspired by the pan-continental airline Air Afrique. The multicolor check pattern, repopularized by creative collaborators, offered a fresh take on classic designs.

In a season filled with mellow grooves and throwback vibes, designers like Grace Wales Bonner and Giorgio Armani presented tailored and elevated collections that harkened back to Afro-Caribbean streetwear and tropical atmospheres. Their designs offered a sense of sophistication and nostalgia in a fast-paced world.

Overall, this season’s fashion shows were a mix of creativity, nostalgia, and commercial appeal, offering a glimpse into the ever-evolving world of fashion. As designers continue to push boundaries and challenge conventions, the runway remains a place where storytelling and artistry collide in unexpected ways.

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