Irani Cafes in Hyderabad: A Cultural Icon Under Threat
The aroma of bun maska, the crunch of freshly cooked samosas, and the warmth of creamy Irani chai – these are the hallmarks of the iconic Irani cafes that have been a part of India’s cultural fabric for over a century. From Mumbai to Pune to Hyderabad, these Persian-style cafes have served as gathering spots for people from all walks of life.
Hyderabad, in particular, has a rich history of Irani cafes, with the city boasting the second-highest number of these establishments after Mumbai. The cafes in Hyderabad have been a symbol of secularism, bringing together people of different religions and castes over a cup of tea.
However, the future of these beloved cafes is now in jeopardy. From a peak of around 450 cafes two decades ago, Hyderabad now has only 125 left, with owners citing rising prices, competition from fast-food chains, and changing consumer preferences as major challenges.
Jaleel Farooq Rooz, owner of The Grand Hotel, a famous Irani cafe in Hyderabad, laments the decline in business, noting that they now sell half the number of cups of tea they used to. Competition from global fast-food chains, rising real estate prices, and a lack of interest from the younger generation in continuing the family business have all contributed to the cafes’ struggles.
Despite these challenges, there are still a few cafe owners like Syed Mohammed Razak, who are determined to keep the legacy alive. Razak, a graphic designer by profession, has introduced new dishes to his menu and is using his skills to promote his business online.
For loyal customers like Yanni, who has been visiting these cafes for generations, the allure of Irani chai remains strong. “Irani tea is a part of my life,” Yanni says. “There is nothing like it even today.”
As these historic cafes face an uncertain future, their cultural significance and the memories they hold for many remain a vital part of Hyderabad’s identity.
