The Bitter Melon Trend: Mixologists Embrace the Extreme Flavor
Austin Hennelly, the 35-year-old bar director at Kato, a Taiwanese restaurant in Los Angeles, is making waves in the cocktail world with his unique use of bitter melon. Hennelly likens tasting bitter melon to “going down the drop of a roller coaster,” describing it as exhilarating and a little bit scary, but ultimately something you want to experience again.
Bitter melon, a member of the gourd family, has long been a staple in Asian, African, and Caribbean cuisines. Now, mixologists like Hennelly are harnessing its extreme flavor to add punch and balance to cocktails. At Jade & Clover in Manhattan’s Chinatown, bartender Gelo Honrade creates the Bitter Sweet, a fresh take on the classic Jungle Bird cocktail, with bitter melon replacing Campari. The result is a sweet start followed by a finish reminiscent of cold-pressed kale.
In Hong Kong, Jay Khan of COA cocktail bar opts for the slightly mellower white bitter melon in his Bitter Melon Collins, aiming for a balance of interesting and approachable flavors. Meanwhile, at Rangoon in Manhattan and Watson in Vancouver, chefs and bar managers are incorporating bitter melon into their signature drinks, adding a unique twist to traditional recipes.
The fascination with bitter melon extends to Okinawa, where it is known as goya and is believed to have therapeutic properties. Italian spirit makers Benedetta Santinelli and Simone Rachetta were inspired by the island’s culture to create Amaro Yuntaku, infused with bitter melon. The drink, currently only available in Europe, is set to expand to the United States later this year.
With its bold and distinctive flavor profile, bitter melon is taking the cocktail scene by storm, offering a new and exciting experience for adventurous drinkers. Whether you’re sipping a Garden Tonic at Kato or trying a Bitter Melon Collins at COA, one thing is for sure – bitter melon is here to stay.
